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How a suit jacket should fit

A tailor measuring a client's back with a tape inside a clothing store for a bespoke suit fitting.

A jacket can be adjusted in many places, but some are much easier to change than others. Check these points in front of a mirror, wearing the shirt you will wear with it.

The parts that are hard to change

  • Shoulders: the shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends, with no dent below it and no overhang. Shoulders are the hardest part of a jacket to alter, so choose a jacket that fits here first.
  • Collar: the jacket collar should rest on your shirt collar without a gap at the back of the neck.

The parts a tailor can usually adjust

  • Sleeve length: a little shirt cuff, about 1 to 1.5 cm, usually shows below the jacket sleeve when your arms hang down.
  • Waist: buttoned, the jacket should close without pulling into an X shape around the button. Taking in the sides gives a closer fit.
  • Length: a classic jacket usually covers most of the seat, but lengths vary with style, and shortening a jacket a lot can upset its proportions.

If the shoulders and collar fit, most of the rest can usually be tailored. Bring the jacket to a fitting and ask what is possible before you buy, especially for sale items that cannot be returned.

Demo photos from Pexels by cottonbro studio, Anna Tarazevich, Tima Miroshnichenko, İsra Nilgün Özkan, BULE, Pavel Danilyuk, Gustavo Fring, Antoni Shkraba, Wallace Chuck. Photos are for this demo only and are not included in the theme download.